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Straightforward guides for owners considering selling, and buyers researching before purchase. Twenty years of dealing watches in Hawaii, written in plain English with honest specifics rather than marketing copy.
The honest answer depends on the reference, the condition, the papers, and the current market. This guide walks through how to estimate your Rolex’s market value using reference numbers, condition benchmarks, and recent comparable sales, then explains where the wide spread between offers comes from and what you can do to narrow it. Includes worked examples on a Submariner, a Daytona, and a Datejust.
Three paths, three timelines, three payout structures. When each makes sense, and the worked math on what you actually take home from each option.
What dealers actually look at when quoting a watch. Movement, case, dial, papers, and market comparables, plus why identical references sometimes trade at different prices.
How much the original box, papers, and warranty card actually affect value. Brand-by-brand differences from Patek (a lot) to Tudor (much less). What to do if you have lost yours.
How the market moved through the 2021 spike, the 2023 correction, and where things sit in 2026. Which references have held their premium, which have not, and what that means for owners considering selling now versus waiting.
The eight checks a professional runs when authenticating a watch, and the ones you can do yourself. Includes red flags in listings and brand-specific patterns for the most-counterfeited references.
We get questions by email every week that are not yet in the guides. What a specific 1975 Speedmaster reference trades at today. Whether it makes sense to trade a Sub for a Daytona plus cash. How to handle a Grand Complication without service history. If your question is not answered above, email us and we will answer directly. If it turns out to be a common question, we may turn it into a new guide, with credit to you if you want it.
